Cuenca

Monday, October 28, 2013

            We are back in Valencia after our weekend in Cuenca.  We attended the VIII Encuentro de Magos Infantiles where I learned some valuable lessons.  Our journey started on Friday afternoon with a quick fifty-minute trip on the AVE and we were back home at 6:00 PM on Sunday.

            We stayed at what was originally a convent – El Hotel Convento del Giraldo­ – and, as one might expect, all of the rooms had modern trappings.  Our room was on the fourth floor and it had a single window that was so high up on the wall that one had to use a stepladder to reach the chain that lowered the window shade.  It wasn’t this one that needed the ladder, but rather the other one.  We unpacked and then made our way to the Teatro Auditorio de Cuenca where all events and shows took place.  Our hotel was located in the old quarter of the city and it took us quite a while to navigate the many steps that led to the theater.  We later discovered that there was an easier way to get there that was also more scenic.

            After receiving our credentials we made our way to the first lecture, which was participative in nature.  Everyone was asked to think about three positive things and three negative things about one of their last performances.  We then broke into small groups and discussed what we had written.  The rather large auditorium really did not lend itself to this task.  There was no way to comfortably sit in a small group and have the discussion.  As Susan observed, it also would have been better if our leader had changed the instructions to the following:

Take a few minutes to think about three positive things about your last performance and three things that could have been improved.  When you have done that, form a group of five with four other participants.  Each group should appoint a timekeeper and a secretary.  Everyone will have three minutes to share with the group the plus and minus points of his last performance.  The timekeeper will notify the speaker when his three minutes are up.  The secretary will note the issues that need improvement.  When everyone has had a chance to participate, the secretary will read off the list of elements that need improvement.  Members of the group will brainstorm possible solutions to as many issues on the list as time permits.  When the moderator calls time, the secretary of each group will report out to the other groups the essence of their discussion and the possible solutions that have been suggested.

           

            Our group had mixed results because some spoke more than others and some were off topic.  Nonetheless, I did pick up a couple of pointers.  Next came the least valuable lecture of the weekend.  It was essentially a dealer’s show in which the “lecturer” demonstrated all the things he had for sale at his booth.  Ironically, of all the items demonstrated, none were usable in a performance for children.

            When the lectures were over we all made our way to the center of town for dinner at the Hotel Alfonso VIII.  It was a typical hotel banquet meal and the good news is that was one of the three meals that were included in the registration fee of 125 Euros.  Dinner ended around midnight and Susan and I took a cab back to our hotel.

            Saturday morning I headed back to the convention and Susan used her time to photograph the enchanted city of Cuenca and its hanging houses – houses that are built into the cliffs that surround the city. 

            My first session on Saturday was an opportunity for several of us to share ideas or experiences from our performances for children.  Six of us did a presentation.  I kicked things off with a demonstration of the sign that I use to generate a letter-by-letter cheer form the audience of the word MAGIA.   I then demonstrated my handling of an Andrew Mayne principle involving the production of items from a seemingly empty paper bag.  Several participants spoke of the healing power of magic and several others shared effects that they use in their performance.  All in all, it was a very worthwhile session.

            I skipped the next session so that I could nose around in the dealers’ room.  I did pick up a couple of things, most of which will be used in my kids’ show and some of which I can use for a more general audience.  I was pleased that I kept my purchases under 100 Euros.

            Susan showed up at 2:00 when our good friends Antonio and Carmen and Ramón and Juan Diego were ready to head out for lunch.  The cafes and restaurants were quite full, but we ended up at a small bar that is reputed to have the best tapas in town.  We ordered seven or eight different dishes and we all shared our cholesterol fiesta. 

            At 6:00 PM Susan and I attended what was the most valuable of all the sessions.  It dealt with the use of magic to teach a variety of concepts.  The presenter, Xuxo, has many years of experience both as a teacher of little ones and as a magician.  Many valuable ideas were put forth and many of those assembled bought his book.

            At 7:30 we made our way to the theater for the evening gala. It was a chance for us to see our friend, Ramón, perform and, for selfish reasons, his was the performance that I enjoyed most.  After the show all participants headed for dinner at the hotel. 

            Sunday’s gala was at noon and the theater was almost full. The two performers I enjoyed most were Las niñas del mago and Cliff.  It was refreshing to see female performers in a field dominated by men.  Their number was very fanciful and captured the attention of all the youngsters in the audience.  Cliff is a transplanted Brit was has spent the last 21 years in Spain.  His turn was absolutely hilarious and once again demonstrated by how much magical entertainment can be generate by the use of only a few props.  His interaction with his young volunteer was priceless.  He played off of her quite well and in no way embarrassed her.  I learned a great deal from his performance in terms of audience management and in terms on focusing on what the goal of your performance is…entertainment.

            Susan and I skipped the official luncheon and instead headed for downtown and found a café that had an empty table.  We ordered a salad, some potatoes and a few shrimp and that was our lunch.  We then found a cab, returned to the hotel to pick up our suitcases and then it was off to the train station.  The AVE arrived at 4:30 as scheduled and three minutes later we were on our way back to Valencia.

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Fin De Fiesta!

Monday, October 21, 2013

            We are back in Valencia after spending a fantastic week in Las Palmas.  We thoroughly enjoyed our time with Juliet, Stephanie, Lola and Lucy.  Juliet’s willingness to be our driver and guide made it an unforgettable visit.  The week went by all too fast and I guess that’s a good sign.

            Saturday was a beach day and Juliet picked us up and transported us to Melinara, a small beach located five minutes away from their home by car.  We had a drink at a seaside café while Juliet went and picked up the rest of the family.  When they returned we staked out our turf on the beach and I read while everyone else frolicked in the surf.  We had a reservation for 2:15 at Venecia, one of the restaurants that border the beach area.  It was a good thing that we did because the terrace was full when we got there and the only open table was ours.

            After studying the menu we decided to order a number of dishes for sharing.  In no particular order we had a salad, pimientos de Padrón, papas arrugadas, gofio (a grain that is mixed into a paste and spread on onions, lettuce or bread), a pizza, brochetas de carne and a whole fish.  We also managed to empty two bottle of Ramón Bilbao, a lovely crianza from La Rioja.  The girls went to a nearby ice cream stand for their dessert.  Lucy’s ice cream met an untimely death when it fell to the ground.  I went back to the store with her and the young woman behind the counter replaced the fallen ice cream at no charge.  Yet another reason to like Las Palmas.  I lingered on at the café while the crew went back to the beach for more fun in the sun.  Juliet then drove us back to the hotel and we stayed put for most of the evening except for a brief escape for ice cream.

            Sunday was the first cloudy day that we experienced.  In spite of that the beach was packed.  It is obviously a family day and when you add the tourists in search of the sun to the many natives you get a cheek-to-cheek situation on the beach.  Since we were not planning to go to the beach, it was not a problem for us.  We had a late breakfast after checking out of the hotel and we busied ourselves until 2:30 when Juliet came by to take us to the airport.

            We stopped off at one of the cafés in the airport and had a sandwich while we waited for our gate to be announced.  We then made our way to the gate and waited while the incoming flight dispersed its passengers and the plane was readied for its new occupants.  The flight was a smooth one, but the flight attendants were an absolute disaster.  They spent the whole flight commiserating with a fellow attendant who had been called on the carpet for not following some sort of a procedure, followed by another discussion regarding unpaid leave.  All of the attendants did an outstanding job of ignoring the passengers.

            We were back home a little before 10:00.  We unpacked and hung up those things that were in need of a hanger, cleared off the bed and went to bed.  It’s good to be back home!  Later this week we have a convention in Cuenca.

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More Adventures!

Saturday, October 19, 2013

Our one week escape is winding down and we are more than pleased to have discovered more of Las Palmas than we had anticipated.  Our friend, guide and chauffeur, Juliet, has made it easy for us to discover aspects of the island that would have remained unknown to us.

Yesterday was a day to relax, rest, and recover.  After our breakfast at La Panaderia Real we went back to the room and got ready to attack the beach.  You can rent a chaise longue and a beach umbrella for 5 Euros and your rental is good for the entire day.  You can leave the beach and return without having to pay an additional fee.  The beach is spotless and, unlike the beaches of Mexico, there is no one trying to sell you anything.  As a result you can do whatever you are doing without interruption.  However, unlike Mexico, there are no beach restaurants where a waiter will bring you whatever you desire to eat or drink.  The solution here would be to bring your goodies with you and that is not a bad solution.

I lasted all of 75 minutes on the beach and headed back to the room to write a blog post.  Susan stayed on the beach until 2:30 and then came back to the room to change for lunch.  We were heading to La Tabla Caliente, a restaurant that Zhava had recommended and we were in search of one of their specialties – langostinos al champan.

The restaurant has been in existence for 14 years and after dining there I can well understand why it is a favorite spot for both tourists and locals.  The proprietor is most charming and he loves to flirt with the ladies, but it is clear from the outset that it is all in fun.  We started our meal with some piquillo peppers stuffed with shrimp and served in a lovely cream sauce.  Next came the langoustines which we saw him prepare in the center of the dining room.  The flambé of the finished dish was most impressive, but even more impressive was the taste of the dish.  For dessert Susan chose fig ice cream with a dark chocolate sauce and I chose the bananas flambé because I had never experienced them.  By this time the proprietor had left to have his lunch and his daughter had taken over the cooking chores.  The bananas were perfect.  We finished the meal with coffee and our chupito this time was one called Pamplamousse – a grapefruit and vodka liqueur. I believe it is native to the Canaries and might be available at the Corte Ingles.  It was delicious so we will have to investigate,

Our original plan for the late afternoon was to take a cab to La Garita and catch up with Juliet and Stephanie.  However, we received a call from Juliet telling us that Lucy had injured herself playing jumprope snd the school had insisted that she be taken to Urgencias to make sure that nothing serious had transpired.  Nothing had although Lucy has a fat lip and a shiner as a memento of the evnt.

We caught up with Juliet at the hospital parking lot and from there we headed out to La Garita.  Our first stop was the ice cream shop where we all partook of some delicious homemade gelato.  We then made a stop at a seaside cafe for some liquid refreshment and then it was on to El Buly, the neighborhood pizza place where we enjoyed a couple of salads a killer focaccia and a pizza margherita.  When we waddled out we headed for Juliet’s car and twenty minutes later we were back at the hotel.

We were in for the night.  Susan read and i fiddled around on my iPad.  It was a little after midnight when we shut off the lights.

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Teror (Not A Mispelling)

Friday, October 17, 2013

It’s another sunny day here in The Canaries.  Talking with our waiter last night it seems that we picked an excellent week to be here since tourism really starts to kick in next week.  As a result the beaches and walkways are not crowded and one does not need to make a reservation for a restaurant.  I just spent an hour or so on the beach and left Susan there to bask in the sun.  We will get a bite to eat at 2:30 and at 5:30 we will head to Telde to catch up with Juliet and family for a swim at the local beach followed by a pizza dinner.

Yesterday Juliet took us to Teror, a hill town that is about 25 minutes away from the center of town.  The ride out there was quite scenic and the highway system here in Las Palmas is second to none.  I imagine that the quality of the roads decline when you get further out where the pueblos are, but I am only guessing.           Teror is the source for most of the bottled water that is sold here in Las Palmas.  It is part of a conscious effort to encourage people to buy local.  Being so far from the mainland, one gets the impression thatLas Palmas, and perhaps the other islands, like to think of themselves a self-sufficient,although like all autonomias – they are dependent on the national government for funding all services.

Teror is a small city with a main square and the streets that lead you to it dating from the 16th century.  The balconies of the houses that line the street are part of its fame and so is the chorizo and morcilla that are produced in that area.  The chorizo, both red and white is more pate-like as opposed to its usual resemblance to pepperoni.  The morcilla is both sweet and spreadable, too.

We wended our way through the streets and stopped here and there to look into a shop or two.  I could not resist and I picked up a T shirt to add to my collection.  Heeding the suggestion of a local we stopped at Bar Inma and had some lunch.  We shared everything including a bocadillo de chorizo,  a chickpea stew, and some fried fish.  The fish was so go with its green mojo that we ordered a second plate.  We passed on dessert, but we all had coffee and a chupito.  The meal that also included two steins of beer and ywo glasses of wine came to a grand total of 27 Euros.  When we finished our meal we headed back to town and Juliet dropped us off a block away from the hotel.

We stayed in the room for a while and at 9:00 we ventured forth in search of a bite to eat.  We ended up at Madrid II where we had enjoyed a pleasant lunch on Monday.  Our waiter, who had celebrated his birthday on Tuesday, was back to work and he greeted us warmly.  Susan and I shared a salad and a palte of steak filets.  Susan wanted some papas arrugadas and I was in the mood for fries and that posed no problem for our waiter.  Dessert consisted of coffee and a chupito.  We then headed back to our room and read for a while before we turned off the lights.

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La Cueva Pintada

Thursday, October 17, 2013

I am sitting on the balcony this morning looking at a sunny sky populated by a few wispy clouds and the Canarian hills in the background.  Were I to sit in the right hand corner of the balcony, I could have a view of the ocean, as well.  Our room at the NH Imperial Playa hotel does not have a sea view.  There is a convention of pediatricians in town and they have booked all sea view rooms, as well as many others.  Given the fact that the ocean is almost at the foot of the hotel’s front door, we do not feel deprived.

It turns out that we chose a well positioned hotel, even though our intention was not to stay in a hotel, but rather to rent a place for a week.  I had found a penthouse apartment right on the beach with a jacuzzi on the terrace, as well as a barbecue.  I had founf it on Holiday Lettings, which is owned by TripAdvisor.  I reserved the place in June and sent in the deposit.  In July I contacted the owner asking for the exact address of the unit and the way in which we would get the keys to the apartment.  Since we would be arriving close to midnight I wanted to be sure that there would be no problem getting into the place.  I did not receive a response. 

I sent in the remainder of our rental price in mid-September once gain requesting the address and the way in which we would get the keys.  Again there was no answer.  I contacted Holiday Lettings.  I did not receive an answer from them, either.  I went on the web to see what kind of reputation Holiday Lettings had.  Pre-TripAdvisor it had a sterling reputation, but since the takeover it had turned into an absolute disaster.

There was a contact phone number for the owner. I called it and listened to a recorded message that said that no such number existed. I hung up and canceled our reservation.  I then lodged a complaint with PayPal and elevated it to a dispute.  On Saturday I learned that my rental minus the booking fee had been refunded.  On Tuesday I learned that the booking fee had been refunded.  We booke dour hotel last week and we chose well.

The hotel is modern.  Our room has two twin beds, a sitting area and a balcony,  There is free Wi-Fi that works well for our purposes, although the bandwidth is somewhat limited.  There is a premium option for 6 Euros a day that seems rather reasonable compared to what other hotels tend to charge.  The hotel is quiet and all outside noise tends to evaporate around 11:30.

Yesterday we met Juliet for breakfast at Panaderia Real and from there we headed off to La Cueva Pintada located in the nearby town of Galdar. The cave dates from the 12th century and was discovered by accident in the 19th century.  Time had covered it with a layer of volcanic soil that had been used in turn to plant bananas and during the harvest season, a worker fell through a hole and discovered the caves.  The owner of the property and the caves ceded ownership of the caves to the city and it was not until 1986 that a true archeological dig and restoration began.

The caves are housed in a modern building and tours are offered in four different languages.  The most modern technology co-exists in this building with the remnants of the Canaries aboriginal past.  The tour begins with a short film explaining the discovery of the caves and things that one will note during the tour.  The film is projected on a screen wider than most I have seen in movie theaters here.  When the film is over, the screen rises to reveal a wide window through which one gets a first view of the caves. The guide then assembles the group and off you go.

Most of what one sees are the remants of the original caves and one can appreciate the form and function of these dwellings.  At the end of the tour you visit two dwellings that have been constructed to allow one to appreciate what it was like to live in those dwellings.  A final video explains the hierarchical structure of the tribe and the elements that they used in order to paint the walls of the caves.  Most of the red color of the walls have disappeared with time and the presence of humans viewing the caves.  A good 50% of the wall painting in a ceremonial room remains.  That portion of the caves ia enclosed in glass and temperature and humidity are constantly monitored with state of the art instruments.  The tour takes less than an hour and I found it to be fascinating.

When the tour was over we spent some time and money in the museum shop and we then went in search of a cafe where we could have a drink before we made our way back to Las Palmas.  Juliet teaches one Spanish class a week and yesterday was her teaching day so we needed to be back in town before 2:00.  We made it without any problem.

We freshened up in our room and at 2:30 we decided it was time to go in search of lunch.  Close by the hotel is a restaurant that Zahava and Klaus had recommended and given that the place is always full the locals must share their opinion.  The restaurant is called La Marinera and it sits on the water.  The menu features more than a dozen varieties of fish all of which are fished locally and all of which are delivered fresh caught in the morning.  The fish can be prepared in a variety of ways and you can ask them to bone the fish for you or, if you prefer, you can do it yourself.

When we walked by the other day I noticed that they had arroz con bogavante on the menu and since we were on vacation and rarely order it when we encounter it in Valencia we already knew what we were going to order.  We were shown to our table and our waiter, Momo, suggested a bottle of a Canary white wine.  He offered us a taste, telling us that if we did not like it, he would gladly offer us a different bottle of wine.  The wine was perfectly crisp and refreshing so there was no need to make a change.

While we sipped the wine we studied the menu and decided to start with an ensalada marinera with smoked salmon and then to follow it with the rice and lobster dish.  Momo suggested we order half a portion of salad and his suggestion was spot on.  Had we ordered and finished the full size there would have been no room for the main course. While we were working on our salad Momo introduced us to our lobster and when we gave our approval Mom walked him to the kitchen to meet his destiny.

In due course our rice with lobster arrived.  It could have easily fed four.  As requested, Momo had shelled the lobster and we could appreciate the large pieces of lobster meat that populated the rice.  This arroz con bogavante was different than otherversions we have tried.  The Asturian version of this dish is made with olive oil and lots of garlic.  This version was a cousin to the arroz meloso that we have in Valencia.  It is made with a fish stock, tomatoes and a generous amount of saffron.  Although we tried our best, we could not even come close to finishing all the rice, although we did manage to eat all the lobster meat.

For dessert Momo suggested something that would be muy digestivo and he served us a dish of his own invention.  It is made with papaya, orange juice, a scoop of vanilla ice cream and a generous dash of Gran Manier.  It had the consistency of a thick milkshake  and we made it disappear quickly.  After our coffee we were offered a chupito of Ronmiel and when we pushed our chairs away from the table to make our escape, somehow it had magically become 4:30.  As you can tell, we had an outstanding meal with outstanding service.  If time permits we will pay a second visit.

We went back to our room and did a little bit of this and that.  I used my time to write yesterday’s blog post.  At 9:00 we went in search of an ice cream and find one with little difficulty.  When we got back to our room, we read for a while and shut off the lights a little before 11:00.  Juliet will be coming by in about an hour and we will head out to the mountain town of Teror for a visit and a spot of lunch.

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Chirp, Chirp!

Wednesday, October 16, 2013
Having friends who are spending the year in Las Palmas makes exploring this island infinitely easier. The added bonus in addition to their knowledge is the fact that they have a car.
Monday morning we got up around 9:00 and went in search of breakfast. We found a small bakery with seaside tables and we had our morning coffee and a roll while we watched the world go by. When we finished we decided that we would take a stroll along El Paseo de las Canteras, a walkway that goes the length of the beach. You have the Atlantic on your right and a series of shops, restaurants, apartments and hotels on your left. We had been walking for a couple of hours when Juliet called and proposed meeting us to search out a place for lunch. The idea was that we would meet up a little before 1:00 and then call Stephanie who got out of class at 1:00 and have her join us.
We settled in at a restaurant that Stephanie’s Spanish teacher had recommended and while we waited fr Stephanie to make her appearance, we had a drink and nibbled on some bar snacks. When Stephanie came by we decided to have some lunch and while Stephanie dove into a steak, Susan, Juliet and I ordered a specialty of the island, vieja or parrot fish. It is a mild, white fish that was prepared on the grill with an abundance of garlic. It was served with papas arrugadas, a specialty of the Canaries that consists of small potatoes that are coated with an abundance of sea salt and served with a tomato based mojo that adds the perfect touch. We enjoyed a lovely Riojan red, Ramon de Bilbao, and were very pleased with our choices. We passed on dessert and had our coffee and along with the coffee our waiter placed four shot glasses on the table, along with a bottle of ronmiel. Ronmiel is another specialty of the Canaries and it is a liqueur made with rum and honey. This particular brand, Artemi, is smoother than most and goes down pretty easily. In the course of our after-lunch conversation we managed to polish off half the bottle.
Stephanie and Juliet left around 4:00 to pick up the kids and Susan and I made our way back to the hotel. We rested up a bit and then went out again at 7:30 to take brief walk and find a light bite. We stopped off at a cafe near the hotel and had a very tasty salpicon de mariscos that went down very easily with the local beer. We were back in our room by 9:30 and after puttering around a bit we opted for an early bedtime.
Juliet called around 10:00 Tuesday morning and we agreed to meet in the old part of town that is known as La Vagueta. We took the Guagua Municipal that is the local bs system that plies the main thoroughfares of the city. An interesting footnote that is a peek into the mind of the local who are extremely polite took place when, at one of our stops, a pregnant woman entered the bus. A minute or two later the bus driver calls back and inquires if the regnant woman has found a seat. When he receives a positive reply, he sets the bus in motion again.
The bus dropped us off right in front of the Mercado Central and Jukiet met up with us a few minutes later. We began our exploration with a visit to the market. It is laid out a bit differently than the one we re used to in Valencia and there is a greater separation between the stalls of the purveyors. The stalls are also more enclosed. In a rather quick visit we saw an abundance of fruit and vegetable stands and a rather healthy number of stalls selling freshly caught fish.
Our next stop was the Columbus Museum that is small in size, but extremely interesting. There are a number of models of his sailing ships, maps, portraits, furniture and sculptures. There are even two macaws in the courtyard, one of which had attacked Juliet during a previous visit. When we finished our tour of the museum we made our way to the Cathedral.
The Cathedral is Gothic in style, relatively large and simple in design. It lacks all the excesses that one tends to find in Spain’s larger cathedrals. It looks like a space where one comes to find God, as opposed to a space that is meant to impress with its excesses of statuary, stained glass, gold and silver.
It was a short walk to the Triana neighborhood where we parked ourselves t an outdoor cafe and waited for Stephanie’s arrival. When she came we ordered lunch from the menu of the day and we were all pleased with our choices. I had the albondigas caseras, Susan had arroz a la cubana and Juliet had ropa vieja, which in the Canaries is a stew made with potatoes, garbanzos and octopus. Dessert and coffee followed and we then parted ways. Stephanie and Juliet went to pick up the kids and we headed back to the hotel for a brief respite.
At 4:40 we hopped a cab and headed out to Telde, the neighborhood where Juliet and Stephanie live. We were to meet up in nearby La Garita to catch up with adults and kids and to explore the walkway that goes along the beach area there. It was sunny and not to hot and the sun played continuously on the clear blue waters of the Atlantic. The sandy beach is replaced by outcroppings of volcanic rock making one wish they had paid more attention during geology class. Juliet took us to her happy place and that involved a bit of climbing that posed a challenge to my creaky knees, but I managed to be equal to the challenge.
We found ourselves on an outcropping of rock with a perfect view of the water as it kicked up an impressive spray as it crashed against the outcroppings of rock. There were small craters in the rocks that were filled with salt deposited there when the pools of water were dried up by the sun. We made our way back up the incline and stopped off at a nearby cafe for refreshments. From there we walked to Juliet and Stephanie’s house.
They have rented a small two bedroom apartment that overlooks the water. The view is spectacular. The building in which they live used to be part of a hotel and the main building of the hotel sits in a state of decomposition. The apartments that were chiseled out from the old rooms and suites are as modern as can be and in excellent condition.
I had brought a number of goodies for Lola and Lucy and the four of us sat around the table for a session of show and tell. In a short period of time the table was filled with personalized business cards, crazy bands, flashlight pigs, flying butterflies, jumping origami frogs and pearl poodles. While we played we snacked on cheeses. chorizo, nuts and other goodies. As 8:00 o’clock approached I did a magic trick for the kids and then Juliet drove us back to our hotel.
It had been a long and tiring day and it turned out that we had walked close to eight miles and had climbed the equivalent of twenty-five flights of stairs. My knees and ankles were not too happy. We puttered around for a while and were in bed by 11:00 already knowing what tomorrow’s adventure would be.
There are no pictures attached because I am working on my iPad and WordPress is not as friendly as the computer version. However, I will share Susan’s Facebook pictures and I will leave it to you to combine the two.

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A Letter From Home

Tuesday, October 8, 2013

            It has been more than a year since we said goodbye to Los Angeles and returned to Valencia with the intent of being here on a permanent basis.  All in all, it has been a good decision.  We have improved our quality of life.  Having most things in walking distance means that we are certainly more active in all aspects f our life.  We walk a great deal and we probably average a good 20 miles a week as we make our way around town.  We do take the occasional taxi, but I have not been behind the wheel of a car since last July. 

            Having the Central market a block away from the house has been a gift.  There is no fresher source for fruit, vegetables, fish, meat and charcuterie that what one finds at the 900+ stalls at the market.  We have, in our opinion, discovered the best vendors and they are the ones we consistently patronize.  We visit with Solaz for charcuterie and cheeses, Concha for the most amazing fruit I have ever tasted, Amparo for vegetables, Basilio for meat, Javi for fish and the ever-popular chicken lady whom we tend to visit twice a week.  Our diet is a much healthier one and I can’t remember the last time that we ate a prepared product.  The microwave’s main function is popping corn.  We are not warming up the equivalent of Trader Joe’s prepared specialties.

            We are visiting restaurants less frequently that before and part of the reason is that I have been on a diet since the end of July.  Dieting is easier when you eat at home.  I have lost fourteen pounds and I have many more to go.  The good news is that I have not set a goal for myself other than to continue to eat sensibly.  My alcohol consumption is reversed for those times I or we eat out and sweets are rarely part of our meals.  When we do go out, we tend to frequent The Ginger Loft, La Fórcola and Carosel.  We also try and discover new places and those include Mood Food, a small 24-seat restaurant on Calle Comedias, and Zen, an Asian restaurant where we had lunch today.  Sunday we had lunch at Appetite, which happens to be the highest rated Valencian restaurant on Trip Advisor.  The food is Asian influenced and it reflects Bonnie’s time in a number of cities around the world.

            Sunday’s menu included a soft tortilla filled with grilled chicken and other goodies, clochinas, a shellfish that resembles cockles and are native to Galicia, duck in a curry sauce, grilled Galician veal served with a salad with Korean spices, Malaysian-style fish baked in a banana leaf and for dessert a butterscotch trifle made with cocoanut.  As it turned out, that was the meal of the day and supper was simply a piece of fruit.

            We continue to take advantage of Valencia’s cultural offerings.  We get our classical music fix at the Palau de Música where Valencia’s symphony orchestra offers two programs a month.  There are also a number of concerts held in that space that run the gamut from visiting orchestras, to world-famous soloists to the stars of jazz.  Jimmy Glass is Valencia’s preeminent jazz club and attracts some prestigious jazz artists.  There are a number of theaters in town that range from 99 seat theaters to those large enough to accommodate a well-attended opera.  We saw the Spanish production of GREASE last month and have tickets to see the Spanish version of LES MIS in December.  November will afford us the opportunity to see our friend, Rebeca Valls, in Ibsen’s THE DOLL HOUSE.  We do catch the occasional movie, but most of them arrived here in their dubbed version and that is always a disappointment.  There is one theater that shows all films in their original version and the Yelmo multiplex has a reduced number of showings of films in their original language.  The good news is that we have Apple TV here and we can catch up on those films that do not make it to these shores.

            Exercise has become part of our weekly routine.  Susan does Pilates twice a week and will add swimming to her exercise routine in the near future.  I have found a new gym, Health City that is a good fifteen-minute walk from the house.  I do my cardio there, as well as those exercises that I cannot do at our in-home Dynamic Strength Training circuit.  Susan and I both work out three times a week at home.

            There is no lack of magic activity both here and nearby.  I have my weekly Monday and Thursday get-togethers.  Last month we were in Vitoria for a magic weekend and at the end of this month we will be in Cuenca for three days attending a convention that focuses on magic for children. We will travel to Granada the week before thanksgiving for the Hocus Pocus Festival.  There is a national convention in June and I am sure that there will be other magic opportunities that will pop up here and there.

            I continue to do translations for Genii magazine and EL MANUSCRITO.  This spring will see me doing proof reading for two books that will be published towards the end of 2014.  One of them is the long anticipated revised and expanded version of Juan Tamariz’s THE MAGIC WAY. I continue to work on developing my magic and I end up doing something for friends over dinner on a weekly basis.  I have not set up any performances of my kids show as of yet.  I think that will have to wait until December when we will be home for an extended spell.

            Non-magic travel is also part of the bill of fare here.  Next week we head to the Canary Islands to visit with Juliet Henderson and her family.  Juliet is a former Westridge colleague who is currently on a year’s sabbatical courtesy of the Hotchkiss School.  We will be spending a week and we are looking forward to discovering what Las Palmas has to offer.  This past weekend Susan did a quick trip to Guadalest and points east along with Zahava and Klaus and Celeste, a friend of theirs from Toronto.

            Health-wise we are doing well.  We have medical insurance through a company called Sanitas.  It costs us close to 1,000 Euros a month and it covers everything except prescription medicine.  The process here is very simple.  You show your card.  They swipe it and that’s it.  There are no bills that arrive later.  Prescription drugs are piece-controlled here so my blood pressure medication, which cost $60 in California, costs me 11 Euros here.  The Spanish health care system is one of the top three in Europe and Sanitas is a private health care organization and that means that there is no long wait to get an appointment.

            We are still adapting to what has been a dramatic change in our life. It is a given that we miss friends and family, but Skype is somewhat helpful in that respect.  We have made a number of friends here, but there is a lack of history with these friends.  We are newcomers to friendships and we have not been privy to their past history.  We have not celebrated their past successes with them nor have we comforted them when sadness was a part of their life.  We understand that our friendships here will deepen with time, but, at the moment, we feel that we are on the surface of the culture and the passage of time is one of the only ways that will allow us to settle more deeply into relationships.

Today’s photos include some food shots from Appetite where I also did some magic and Susan’s weekend trip.  Enjoy them!!

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Vitoria

Monday, September 23, 2013

            We are back in Valencia after an enjoyable few day in Vitoria, Spain.  The occasion for our visit was a weeklong event called Magialdía. The weeklong festival features magic for the inhabitants of Vitoria and beginning Friday morning there are a series of events intended for magicians only.

            We began our journey on Thursday when we boarded the 12:30 AVE to Madrid.  We were at Atocha some ninety minutes later.  We needed to get to Chamartín to catch our train to Vitoria.  Atocha is also called the South Station and Chamartín is also known as North Station and, as you might suspect, the stations are on opposite ends of the city.  That being the case we hopped a cab and some twenty minutes later we were at Chamartín.

            Chamartín is the ugly stepsister of Madrid’s rail stations.  It is very dark and was not built to accommodate the amount of daily traffic it experiences these days.  Consequently there is not enough seating to accommodate passengers who are waiting for their trains.  Some of the restrooms are only accessible by long flights of stairs that necessitate your schlepping your suitcases down the stairs and then back up.  It is often that one gets the opportunity to use the adjective lugubrious, but it is the perfect adjective to describe Chamartín.

            We boarded our second train at 4:20 and we would not arrive in Vitoria until 7:50.  By the time we got to our hotel it was close to 8:30 and we went to our room and unpacked.  We were staying at the Silken Hotel, which was very modern and very pleasant.  Oddly enough there was no Kleenex in the room and, given the fact that both of us were dealing with allergies, it was a bit of inconvenience.  Although there was Wi-Fi in the room it was both slow and spotty.  Other than that, it was a nice place to sleep for those three nights.

            I posted on Facebook that we had arrived in Vitoria and a minute later I received a message from Paul Wilson, one of the festival’s performers and a longtime acquaintance, telling me that a group of magicians were heading out for dinner at 9:30. The gathering point was the NH Chancellor, which was a block from our hotel.  We made our way over there and discovered a host of magicians in the lobby. We chatted briefly with several of them and were then introduced to the organizer of the event. We asked if we could join the group for dinner but it turned out they were heading for two rather small sociedades gastronómicas and all places were accounted for.  So, when the group left so did we, but our destination was a bar/restaurant called Sagartoki.

            Sagartoki is known for its pinchos and its tortilla española has won both first and second prizes in national competitions.  The place was jammed, but we managed to carve out a small space at the bar and tried a number of small plates besides the tortilla.  If memory serves me correctly we had a tempura of vegetables, one of shrimp, some croquetas and one or two other treats.  Fat and sassy we headed back to our hotel and turned in for the night.

            After breakfast we made our way over to El Palacio de Congresos where many of the events for magicians only were to be held.  We picked up our accreditation and a bag of goodies including a T-shirt, a rain poncho and a souvenir deck of cards.  Then it was off to the dealers’ showroom.  I exercised a bit of restraint and bought four or five new effects and I did so for a touch more than $100.  I gathered up all my treasures and off we went to a lecture by Alberto Figureido.  His focus was mentalism or mental magic depending on whom you ask.  He had a number of good ideas and his best piece of advice when working with a prediction involving a card or cards either in stand-up or stage settings was to draw a picture of the suit along with the value of the predicted card(s).  One should also announce the color of the chosen card.  Why? It’s because many Spaniards are still unfamiliar with the cards of a poker deck.

            When the lecture was over we caught up with Paquito and Gioco and the four of us went in search of lunch.  There was a restaurant offering a special for attendees and it was close to the NH Hotel and a good fifteen-minute walk away from where we were.  We were not disappointed.  We had a three-course meal with wine, water, and coffee for less than 10 Euros apiece.  After lunch we headed back for a 4:30 lecture by Paul Wilson.

            Paul Wilson is a multi-talented entertainer who is a magician, a con man, a writer, a director and a producer of television shows.  He has been the star is some of those shows.  Here is what Wikipedia has to say about him:

Ronald Paul Wilson (born in Akrotiri, Cyprus and raised in Singapore and Scotland) is a close-up magician, and television presenter. He lives and works between London, Los Angeles, and his home in Scotland. He lives in Glasgow with his wife Julie and their two children Conner and Cameron. He is represented by David Boxerbaum at the APA Agency in Hollywood, CA.

He has studied sleight of hand, cheating and conjuring since the age of eight. After twelve years as an IT consultant, he became a professional performer and lecturer, studying film before moving into the industry.

Wilson was a second unit director, advisor, and actor in the 2004 film, Shade. He directed and starred in the opening titles, which featured expert sleight of hand with cards. He later appeared as Mr. Andrews, a poker playing card cheat. He also had a small role in Joe Carnahan‘s film Smokin’ Aces, in which he was also a magic advisor whose duties included teaching the lead actor to handle cards like an expert.

Wilson has worked on projects with Sylvester Stallone, Stuart Townsend, Jamie Foxx, Gabriel Byrne, Thandie Newton, Bo Hopkins, Ben Affleck, Ryan Reynolds, Ray Liotta, Alicia Keys, Andy García, Jason Bateman, and Jeremy Piven. He also produced A&E‘s television show Mondo Magic, advised Criss Angel on his television show, appeared on Modern Marvels casino technology episodes, co-created, produced and starred in Court TV‘s The Takedown, and is the resident cheating expert on Italian television‘s Arcana show.

Wilson is currently a writer and presenter on the BBC‘s The Real Hustle. The show is now a hit in the United Kingdom, with series nine having aired on BBC Three on July 29, 2010. A United States version has been commissioned by Court TV.

As a magician Wilson’s television and film credits include the video series Royal Road to Card Magic (2005, L&L Publishing, based on a classic book The Royal Road to Card Magic from 1949), Hit the Road with Paul Wilson and Lee Asher, Knock ‘Em Dead, Twists Of Fate, The Restaurant Act, and The Unreal Work with Paul Wilson and Jason England.

Wilson has published several articles in MAGIC Magazine and Genii Magazine. His books include Chaos Theories, The Little Black Book, Obscure Acts, Omerta, Crash Course in Brain Surgery, The Inslow Effect, 13, Miracle Card in Beer Bottle, The Finnish Line, and over a dozen online manuscripts. Wilson is also the inventor of the “Triple Threat” version of Connie Hayden’s original gaff. Jamie Schoolcraft’s version of Paul’s gaff is known as 3CM. He is also credited as the artist who drew the pictures in Richard Wiseman‘s book “Magic in Theory”.

The lecture was most informative with some good advice about the importance of magic in the lives of others.  After his lecture we invited him to have a drink with us and we found a nearby bar and spent an hour and a half catching up with him and his current projects that include a documentary on the art of magic and a book on the con game.  I have known Paul for a goodly number of years from my contact with him at The Castle and at dean Dill’s Shoppe.  We only catch up occasionally, but when we do both my like and my knowledge of magic have improved.

            We returned to the Palacio for the close-up gala that started at 8:00.  There were five magicians on the bill and a presenter who is also a magician.  The two standout performers for me were Paul Wilson and Javi Benítez.  I had seen Javi before here in Valencia during the 24 Horas. He was a bit nervous in front of the sold-out auditorium, but his version of The Gypsy Thread is the best that I have ever seen and his closing effect – a tribute to his teacher and his inspiration, Arturo de Ascanio, was thrilling and the ending brought a tear or two to my eye.

            We caught up with Paquito and Gioco after the show and, as fate would have it, we ended up at Sargatoki once again.  It was jammed and we were fortunate to find a table outdoors.  We discovered that although most bar, restaurants and cafes in Vitoria have outdoor tables, there is no table service, per se.  You go up to the bar and place your order and carry it out yourself.  They will only deliver dishes that need to be cooked.  We ordered a variety of things, as well as a beer or two.  We paid the bill and then went off on our separate ways.

            There were only two things that we wanted to do on Saturday.  One was to have lunch with our friends Carmen and Antonio and the other was to see the stage show.  We had tickets for the first performance at 6:30.  After a quick breakfast at a nearby café we began our exploration of the city.  Our focus was the old part of the city where the Fournier card Museum is located.  The sun was shining brightly and there were many photo opportunities for Susan.

            We discovered that Vitoria won the award for the Green City of Europe in 2012.  The city is clean, well kept, laid out in a very orderly pattern with very interesting architecture.  It was a most pleasant morning and we walked far and near.  Little did we know that we would end up walking close to eight miles that day.  As 2:00 drew near we headed back to the Palacio to catch up with Carmen and Antonio. I popped inside for a few minutes and chatted with Toni Cachadiña, the dean of Barcelona magic, and Jesús Etcheverry, the author of a four book set on the magic of Ascanio. I also caught up with Luis Iglesias, the best simultaneous translator that magic has ever seen.  We worked together on the translation of Ascanio’s book on knives and, as it turns out, we will work together on another project sometime this spring.

            We had lunch at a nearby restaurant called La Mesa.  The food was excellent and so was the company.  When we finished Carmen and Antonio headed for a lecture and Susan and I headed back to the hotel to rest up a bit. The Teatro Principal, the site of the stage gala, turned out to be a fifteen-minute walks away from our hotel.  We took our seats in the sixth row and enjoyed a very diverse show with some very good magic.  With the exception of the presenter, Karim, I had not seen any of these acts before.

            After the performance we stopped off at you know where.  Afterwards we headed back to the hotel and packed up our things.  Toni Cachadiña had invited me to meet up with him and a group of magicians at a nearby pub, but since the start time was 2:00 AM, I passed on that get-together.

            On Sunday we caught the 10:14 train to Chamartín and the 3:40 AVE to Valencia.  We got home around 6:00 and unpacked.  It turns out that not only did I bring back many wonderful memories from Vitoria, but I also brought back a rather nasty cold. Hopefully I can use my magic skills to make it disappear.

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Lights, Camera, Action!

Sunday, September 15, 2013

            As advertised, things are beginning to pick up here in Valencia now that vacation time has come to an end.  Thursday we were invited to Joana’s 3rd birthday party.  It was held at the MuVIM because it has an enormous patio that easily accommodates many people.  I would estimate that there were roughly 50 people in attendance, half of the children who ranged in age from 6 months to 5 years.  With all the carriages in evidence part of the patio resembled a parking lot.

            Many of those in attendance were part of the group of some 50 Swedes who make their home in Valencia.  A goodly number were parents whose children attend daycare with Joana.  It was fascinating to watch the three-year olds in action.  They are somewhat socialized at that age by virtue of attending daycare but, at the same time, they tend to revolve in their own orbit.  Taking a look at the expanse of the patio it was filled with three-years olds doing their own thing.  It was fun to watch!  We stayed for a little more than an hour and then made our way back home.

            Thursday night was a meeting of the veteranos.  Our focus for the past few meetings have been the various wallets that one can use for a card in wallet effect.  Thursday night was no different. Jerito performed a card in wallet effect that was both amazing and simple to do.  I think that having us over every Thursday does wonders for his spirit and allows him to share parts of his past with us.  After our session we went in search of a place to have supper.

            We have tried many different bars and restaurants and all of them manage to disappoint in one way or another.  Thursday we tried a place called Snooker that had garnered a number of good reviews on Yelp.  Things started out in a promising fashion with a very tasty plate of patatas bravas. Then came our sandwiches and the bread, which is a key ingredient, was disappointing.  My hamburger, which had received high praise from reviewers of this space, was a disappointment.  The patty was overcooked and lacking in taste.  The bacon was burned to a crisp and the bun was way too big for a hamburger that size.  Too make the experience even more disappointing the after-dinner coffee was a disaster.  Perhaps there was something wrong with their espresso machine, but every coffee served was more water than coffee.  We sent the coffees back and the next batch came out just as poorly as the first.  We shall continue our quest.

            Friday Susan caught up with a friend of Ruth Slater, Merle.  Merle had visited here in Valencia two weeks ago and on Friday took the train to Alzira to visit with her.  While there the two of them made the climb to the castle in Xativa and I am including some photos of that visit.  I stayed home and worked on a couple of projects.  Susan returned a little after 4:00 and we just took life easy for the rest of the day.

            Yesterday we did a goodly amount of shopping and, as a result, we had lunch at home.  Susan prepared a tomato sauce made from fresh tomatoes and she used the sauce to top some veal purchased from our favorite butcher, Basilio.  To accompany the veal Susan made a dish of spinach, garbanzos and feta with the addition of garlic and a bit of heat from a guindilla.  For dessert we had a delicious peach courtesy of our friend, Concha, who probable sells the best fruit in the Mercado Central. After lunch we read for a bit and then we got dressed for our evening excursion.

            The concerts sponsored by Los Amigos de la Guitarra de Valencia started up again last night. The musicians featured were a duo from Poland, He played guitar and she violin.  Their program featured pieces that were modern and classical.  They are both very accomplished musician and the ninety minutes that comprised the program seemed to fly by.  After the concert we walked back from the Museo de Bellas Artes and stopped in at The Ginger Loft for a light supper and a visit with Mike and Santi. We enjoyed our conversations as well as some Dim Sum, ceviche and a Thai curry.  We made our way back home around 11:00.  We read for a while and then shut off the lights a little before midnight.

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La Matandeta – Take Two!

Monday, September 9, 2013

            The weather forecast was right off target again.  Instead of rain we have sun.  Oh, well.  That’s just the way it goes.  I managed to get a haircut this morning and that means I will look absolutely ravishing at the CIVAC meeting tonight.  There is no theme for this evening, so we will just hang out and swap stories and tricks.

            Saturday we went to see GREASE at The Olympic Theater.  The show opened on Friday and I managed to snag a couple of seats in the sixth row for the 9:30 performance.  In Spanish theaters matiness take place at 6:00 and there was a matinee on Saturday.  That means that the cast had all of an hour’s rest before they were onstage again.  I do not know how they were able to expend so much energy during the performance we saw.  Adrenalin can only take you so far,

            We took our seats some fifteen minutes before the curtain rose on the first act.  The actor who plays Vince Fontaine was spinning records in his mini-studio.  It was a good mood setter.  We got to listen to Elvis, Buddy Holly, Jackie Wilson, The Everly Brothers and Doris Day! 

            It was close to midnight when the curtain rang down.  The Spanish have learned how to do musical comedy and the actors are well versed in how to sing and dance.  The voices were strong, the dancing impressive and the on-stage orchestra was more than up to its task.  The only problem I had with the performance was the songs that, for the most part, are instantly forgettable.  I understand they are supposed to reflect the era, but, be that as it may, they are mostly forgettable.  Having attended musical since I was thirteen I have high expectations.

            Sunday Brian invited us to join him, his brother, Steve, and his sister-in-law, Beth for a paella.  Our destination was La Matandeta, which is about six or seven miles outside of Valencia in the general region of the Albufera.  This was to be our second visit, having been there for Ofelia’s birthday celebration last year. Brian came by at 1:45 to pick us up and at 2:15 we were seated on the terrace studying our menus.

            Brian had ordered a paella ahead of time and so we studied the list of appetizers.  We ended up choosing a dish composed of tomatoes, mackerel and onions, a salad composed of lettuces, smoked fish and an “ice cream” that melts and becomes the dressing for the salad and, finally, octopus cooked over a wood fire. Our main dish was a paella de señoret, which is a seafood paella in which all shells have been removed from the seafood so you do not have to dirty your hand attacking the shellfish.  For dessert we split the brownie and ice cream and a very tasty cake whose name escapes me at the moment.

            When we entered Dolores addressed Brian by name even though this was only his third visit.  She also recalled that I was the guy who made the napkin roses. After dessert I excused myself from the table and went indoors, ordered a coffee and proceeded to craft a couple of flowers, a butterfly, a poodle and a frog for Elena who was our waitress.

            Shortly thereafter everyone else came inside and I did a little bit of magic for our group.  When we left the restaurant we drove to the lake that is part and parcel of the Albufera and is one of the sources for the irrigation channels that are the lifeline for the rice paddies.  Our visit was brief and we returned to the car and made the brief journey back to Valencia.  We were so full from our lunch experience that we didn’t even think about what was for supper.  We read for a while and headed for bed around midnight.

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